International Federation of Mountain Guides

Angela Hawse
Licensed IFMGA | AMGA Mountain Guide

American Mountain Guides Association


© Rich Durnan Photography

Guide, Alpinist, Athlete & Speaker


Mission Statement

As a guide, my primary concern is your safety. I will manage risks to the utmost of my ability, drawing from a depth of experience and knowledge, accumulated over the past 25 years of moving over technical mountain terrain. For those who seek my guidance, I will provide unique, custom experiences, based on your goals, objectives and conditions that the mountains provide.

I will strive to make each experience educational, fun and rewarding for all involved. I will uphold the highest standard of care and stewardship for the environment and my guests to a better understand the diversity and richness of mountains and wild places.

As an IFMGA licensed Mountain Guide, I will continually pursue ongoing education, keep up with state of the art techniques and the latest equipment to be at the leading edge of my practice to ensure my guests excellence in my provision of care.
My craft will consistently reflect my personal creed of honesty and respect for life, as well as my commitment to uphold the ethical integrity promoted by the American Mountain Guides Association and the highest standards of practice as an IFMGA Mountain Guide.

Training:

IFMGA / UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide
Highest level of Internationally recognized training and certification in 3 Disciplines:
• AMGA Certified Rock Guide
• AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
• AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide

Master of Arts Degree in International Mountain Conservation
Bachelor of Arts Degrees in Outdoor Education and Interpretive Naturalist
Prescott College, Arizona



AIARE Level 3 Avalanche Education Certification
WMA Wilderness First Responder
Outdoor Emergency Care

© Ace Kvale Photography

© Ace Kvale Photography
Professional Memberships:

• International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations
• American Mountain Guides Association
• Canadian Avalanche Association
• American Avalanche Association
• American Alpine Club
• Access Fund
AMGA 2011 Guide of the Year Award


I have worked as a full-time Professional Guide and Outdoor Educator for over two decades, following my passion of being in the mountains, guiding and teaching. My breadth of experience in climbing and guiding is well beyond most other top women guides currently in the U.S., and my safety record is excellent. My clients and I have been rewarded with many summits, memorable experiences and trips together.

Since the early 1990’s, I have led over 20 high altitude expeditions, many to remote corners of the earth. Highlights have included 5 Denali Expeditions, Carstensz Pyramid, Ama Dablam, Everest, Aconcagua and unnamed peaks in Pakistan. In 1998, I was the Deputy Leader of the Everest Challenge Expedition and played a key role in the first disabled ascent of Mt. Everest. I reached the South Summit, known as the 2nd highest point on earth, just 275ft. shy of the true summit, forced back by high winds.
Two weeks later, Tom Whittaker made history as the first amputee to reach the summit of Mt. Everest.

Personal climbing and exploration has taken me throughout the U.S., the Andes, Alaska Range, Canadian Rockies, Patagonia, the Himalaya and Karakoram. In 1988 I did a 26-day self-supported ski traverse across Lapland from Sweden to Norway with two friends. I am versed in all disciplines of climbing including; Traditional and Sport, Big Wall, Alpine, Ice and High Altitude Mountaineering.

I have been a guide and advocate of Women’s Climbing Programs for the past decade, including Chicks with Picks, Women that Rock, Chicks on Cracks and clinics for my sponsors. Although I very much enjoy guiding men and women alike, there is a very special energy, support and encouragement when a group of women climb together that I thrive on.

My focus with many of my expeditions has been to incorporate Service Projects and an ethic of Giving-Back. As a result of my work, in 2001 I earned a Master of Arts degree in International Mountain Conservation. Projects have included a clean-up on Everest that I organized with our Sherpa team to remove over 100 oxygen bottles and 1000kg of garbage from high camps on the South Col Route in 1998. In conjunction with that expedition I also organized a 16-credit course for a small group of Prescott College students to carry out service work in the Khumbu Valley and home stays with Sherpa families while we were on the mountain. In 2001, I led a successful expedition on Aconcagua that removed 1000kg from high camps on the Normal Route.


In 2003, I organized and led an All-Women’s expedition to Ama Dablam, a 22,494ft. Peak in the Everest Region. Calling ourselves the Mamas Dablam, we climbed the mountain without Sherpa support and as a group of women dedicated to Giving-Back, we raised $23,000 for the dZi Foundation to start a safe house for girls in Sikkim.

I am dedicated to furthering my education, knowledge and expertise in my profession. In 2010 I became the 6th woman in the U.S. to achieve UIAGM / IFMGA Full Mountain Guide Certification. The process entailed rigorous courses and exams in all three disciplines of Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering. This has opened doors for me to climb with you in other the 21 other IFMGA member countries including Canada and throughout Europe. To date only 77 guides in the U.S have completed all three exams, compromising 69 men and 8 women.
Active in my profession, I have served as a Board Director on the American Mountain Guides Association Board for 11 years, with the last five as Board Chair and President. I was the first woman on the AMGA Instructor Team training and examining aspiring guides in Rock, Alpine and Ski Disciplines. I also teach guide trainings, rope safety and rescue clinics for a number of different companies.

I’ve worked as a Product Tester for Nike, Moonstone and the Alpinist Mountain Standards. I've helped design and build products with Marmot and Eddie Bauer and currently work with Black Diamond Equipment. I am a proud ambassador for my Sponsors and enjoy the role I play in developing innovative products.

As a guide, my primary concern is your safety. With that comes a great deal of fun, learning and engaging in experiences that will be memorable for a lifetime. I hope to have the opportunity to climb with you and help you achieve climbs, summits and experiences not yet imagined!



© Ace Kvale Photography